This technique is provided by Ted Reese:

For all techniques, if a particular one is taught on one side and you use the other side, simply exchange right for left. A truism: if you ride on the "other side," lock up with your left hand, shoot your double, single, or fireman's with your head on the "opposite side," you are not better, but you will make your opponent worse.

Technique Position and Name (new as of 02-June 2003)
Neutral Position: Getting the Front Headlock(FHL) Neutral Position: FHL(feet) to Near Ankle Neutral Position: FHL(feet) to Far Ankle

Technique Position and Name (new as of 31-May 2003)
Neutral Position: Double Leg Defensive Position: Stand Up Offensive Position: Counters to Bottom Moves-Elbow crunch Offensive Position: Alternative 2 on 1

Technique Position and Name (new as of 21-May 2003)

Neutral Position - Takedowns: Stances Neutral Position - Takedowns: Sugar Foot Neutral Position - Takedowns: Square Stance Neutral Position - Takedowns: Penetration step with sugar foot Neutral Position - Takedowns: Penetration step for a square stance Neutral Position - Takedowns - Set-ups: Hit-Step-Pick (often for a High Single) Neutral Position - Takedowns - Set-ups: Getting the Russian 2-on-1 Neutral Position - Takedowns - Set-ups: Russian to Far Ankle (Heel) Pick Neutral Position - Takedowns - Set-ups: Russian to Near Leg Offensive Position - Breakdowns: Pry-crunch Offensive Position - Breakdowns: Schultz Near Ankle Offensive Position: Switch Sides

Neutral Position - Takedowns: Stances

Body Position for both stances: Remember head, knee, toes are in a line. If your head is in front of this line, you may be snapped down forward; if it is in back of this line, your balance will be "off" to the rear and your opponent should shoot in. Your elbows are in; keep your hands facing your opponent; keep them moving, always grabbing at something. Keep your hands in front of you, but never let your arms be straight or too extended. Your knees should be bent and your back slightly rounded. Your head should be up but your neck shouldn't be arched too much or that will give you opponent a "handle." Your weight should be on the balls of your feet but NOT on your toes. You should keep your body lower than your opponent (until he gets too low) by bending your knees, NOT your back.

Neutral Position - Takedowns: Sugar Foot

One foot is in front of the other; this will be the side you reach for a lock-up with and the foot you penetrate with. You may "paw" with the other hand, but you will be off balance if you reach with it. Your front foot should be pointing straight forward. Your rear foot will be at a 45 degree angle (not 90 degrees!) with air under the outside edge of your foot. Better penetration and defense with a sugar foot.

Neutral Position - Takedowns: Square Stance

Your feet are parallel, with the knees canted "in" with the weight on the inside of both feet. You can lock up with both hands, shoot with either foot first, and can move side to side better with this stance.

Neutral Position -Takedowns: Penetration step with sugar foot

Your back foot--still at a 45 degree angle--comes up almost touching your front foot, and your drive off that foot from the inside of your foot (air is underneath the outside) as you step with your front foot. You land (for most techniques) on your front knee as it drive over and beyond your front foot. Demonstrate the extra distance with "sweat lines" the difference in front knee penetration between the non "step up" (normal) shot and the push with the back foot coming up. A huge difference (a foot sometimes) when a quarter of an inch under a center of gravity means the difference between success and failure.

Neutral Position - Takedowns: Penetration step for a square stance

Shift the weight to the foot opposite the one you penetrate with and immediately drive off that foot (again from the inside of the foot since there is air under the outside) as you penetrate with the other foot.

Neutral Position - Takedowns - Set-ups: Hit-Step-Pick (often for a High Single)

As you gain "inside" control with your left hand on the inside of his right arm, your right hand snaps his head to you and your right forearm hits his collar bone. NEVER, EVER go ear to ear as you lock up. This is the basic standing lock-up position. Your object is to use all of your weight, motion, and power to make him step to you. Your hands, feet, and body should all move at once (though not when first learning the move). Your right hand should come off his head down to just above the back of his left arm, in a cup (thumb with the fingers) position, keeping your elbow down as you yank his arm to your left in front of your body. At the same time, take a step with your left foot to the left (not back or forward) bending a bit at the knee. Your right foot should go behind your left foot to the left BUT it should not hit the ground. All of these components should move his left foot to you. Before it or as it hits the mat, you let go of his arm with your right hand and drive the right hand forward a fraction of an inch by his left side; to emphasize this drive, straighten your arm especially when learning it. Driving off your bent left leg, you step with your righf foot FORWARD yet a bit to the side of his leg which should have been moved to your inside. Your RIGHT ear should make contact with his left chest. If you time it right, his foot will come off the mat as you take it with both your hands.

Neutral Position - Takedowns - Set-ups: Getting the Russian 2-on-1

From his lock up with the "normal" right hand. Learning the technique we did in parts though in competition we shall run all together. With your left foot to the outside of his foot, tucking your chin to your left shoulder, and crunching your collar bone up into his arm as you lean forward turn forward but to your right. Learn the feel of this on your collar bone. The better his lock-up ( a weak lock-up or someone with a straighter arm, you'll do something else), the more torque you can have on his lock-up hand. As his arm begins to come free, reach up and across with your right hand to his lock-up wrist and bring it DOWN and to your right, always still leaning into him. As his arm moves by, your left arm comes grips his upper arm from the rear. Your head is into (not just next to) his neck just below the ear. You should be perpendicular to him, not parallel to him, and to his side, not partially behind him. Take your left foot off the mat and drive down with your shoulder onto his shoulder joint. Yank his elbow past your sternum. From this position, you should be in control and start to move him around or attack when he reacts in a certain way.

Neutral Position - Takedowns - Set-ups: Russian to Far Ankle (Heel) Pick

From a good Russian position, remember Right, Right, Right. You grasp with your right hand at his wrist, place his hand on your RIGHT hip. Spinning on your pivoting left foot, circle your RIGHT foot behind your left, going to your RIGHT--not back but behind your left foot. As you do this, keep the pressure down on the back of his shoulder with your left shoulder. This should bring his far foot in a circle forward so you can go for the far ankle pick. Your feet should be almost touching each other and pointing to his far ankle; your knees should be bent, lowering your and his center of gravity. As your RIGHT hand lets go of his wrist and you reach down for the heel pick, you must drop DOWN across so that both of your knees hit the mat almost on top of his far foot. Go so far across that your toes are flat behind you, not curled up. If you are low enough and continue your pressure across, you will have taken his center of gravity beyond his outside support (the outside foot) and he has to fall over, even before you grab the heel with your RIGHT hand. Do NOT reach for the ankle with your left arm, the one behind his 2 on 1 arm. Why? Reaching with the inside (left hand) will go through his body rather than through the air (much quicker with no resistance); also if he yanks back his caught arm, you have nothing. If you reach with your RIGHT arm and he yanks his arm back, you still have controling power with your left hand behind his arm.

Neutral Position - Takedowns - Set-ups: Russian to Near Leg

In good Russian position--head in neck, pressure down on the shoulder JOINT (not muscles), his elbow beyond your sternum, staying perpendicular--jerk your hips to your right, perhaps taking a short step to your right with your right foot, drive your left bicep into the back of his arm, while jerking your weight and therefore his to your right. This should move his foot forward. Lower your level as you "make him step." When his foot lands, drive into him with your head in front, driving his weight across over his outside foot as you pick up his inside (right) leg with your right hand first (for the same logical reasons as for the ankle pick above). Actually his leg should come off the ground as you drive into him. Top Moves

Offensive Position - Breakdowns: Pry-crunch

If you start with your left hand on the elbow, your thumb will be "with the fingers," NOT looped around front. Your left ear should be on his back. Your left hand slips in front of his near arm and you yank his elbow back and under his body--back and to the right--using not your fingers but rather the underneath part of your wrist and side of your hand. This will mean you are using your lats and destroying his left front side balance. At the same time, your right palm goes to the inside of his right thigh, as far down towards the knee as possible without getting too high yourself. Pry his thigh up, out, and back, trying to get his knee off the mat and his center of gravity going forward and to his left. As you do this, the inside of your right elbow is driving into his right side, going towards you. As you do this, your right knee drives into the right cheek of his butt as you come off both knees and drive him forward. Keep your weight off your knees and driving into him and down, but be sure you don't get too "high." When he is flat try to pick up his left wrist with your right hand under his body.

Offensive Position - Breakdowns: Schultz Near Ankle

Starting on the left side, your right ear will be down. As your right hand goes deeper to his left, tightening the tight waist, you come off your knees, driving your right shoulder into his back; your left hand comes back to his shoelaces (NOT his ankle), yanking it back before you pull it up into the crease where your leg and hip meet. Then your left knee comes down and into his left knee maybe even in front of it, putting a torque on his knee since his ankle is caught in the hip crease. At the same time, your left hand has left his ankle to cut his left elbow to the right under his body as he crashes to his stomach and left side. Grab his right wrist with your right hand and drive it into his stomach. You may be able to "figure four" his pinched in leg with your right foot. You must adjust his left foot placement at the beginning of the technique so that you don't pick up his ankle into your crotch!

Offensive Position: Switch Sides

Start on the right side. Basic move: elbow hand to the stomach, stomach hand to the elbow; down knee goes up and up knee goes down. LEFT ear is down as you shift sides. All should happen simultaneously. When your stomach hand (side of the hand) cuts the elbow, cut it in and under the body. Your left knee should drive in and under the side of his left knee. The crook of your right arm should drive directly across, hitting his waist. Sometimes you might use your right hand as a pry on the right thigh. You may want to adjust your "up knee" remembering where it will be going. Each is different on the placing of the knee.

Neutral Position: Double Leg

Start with sugar foot penetration step, driving off it as soon as it hits the mat, stepping forward with your right foot between his feet and BEYOND. When you hit, keep your back at a 10 degree angle and your head up and make first contact with his belly with your face straight ahead, not facing the side. If you make a full attack your right toes ( the foot between his legs) will be straight, not curled. Each hand is behind the knee ligaments. For the lift on the double, look up to the ceiling, driving across with your head, looking in that direction (right) as your right hand (thumb with fingers) cuts the ligament in a circular motion in and your left hand lifts at the knee. As soon as he is heading down, your ligament hand (right) drives close to the mat (no more than a couple of inches off it) for a nelson. If your hand is too high, he will turn in and stop the nelson. If he is an idiot and turns away, he will be on his back. Wrestlers are trained to turn in, with their hand down low by their hip; catch them first with your "low hand."

Defensive Position: Stand Up

With the man on your left side (if he is on the other side, reverse rights and lefts: even here note, things are tougher if he rides your right side), rip your left arm up and as far as possible to your right as your left foot goes where your right hand was with your foot facing to the right--not forward--and your right hand grabs around his fingers (not his wrist) squeezing them together, straightening your right arm fully extended, as you snap your face up to the ceiling and as your back is straight (sending your opponent off balance as his head bounces off the rear wall), your right knee should spin to your right. This is the first part (position) of the stand-up. Next, straighten both legs as you come up (not your left leg and then your right as this will mean you are using just one left to come up against his weight), putting his captured fingers into your right hip pocket with your now straightened arm. As you come up, lean back into him and look up to get a better back arch. With your right arm extended, he should not be able to put his right arm around your waist. Still keeping your arm extended, step out with your right foot, leaning back into him with your chin up. With the weight back into him and the rest of your weight on the ball of your right foot now with that leg bent at the knee, spin to your left, driving your left (bent) elbow and left foot "through the hole" between your bodies, letting go of his right hand, and lowering your level to be able to defend yourself or take a shot at him since you may be already "inside his just released right arm.

Offensive Position: Counters to Bottom Moves-Elbow crunch from rear standing

From the left side with right hand locked over your left wrist with both palms facing down, your left elbow down angling back, your right shoulder into his spine, your head to the left with your right ear on his back, and right hip into his right hip. Crunch down and to the rear, in a circling motion with the forearm bone crunching at and angle just below his hip socket. As you do so, take the weight off your left foot. Experiment with this technique until you get the feel of it. You can crunch many people down; those who resist will not be getting away, will be struggling, and will set themselves up for another move.

Offensive Position: Alternative 2 on 1

From a square stance with your left foot to the outside plane from his right foot, grab his right wrist with both your hands with your left hand on top. Stepping to the right with your right foot pointing right (not into him) as you drive off your left foot while bringing his wrist (letting go with the top hand--illustrate the greater reach this way) as far across and down as possible, attack his near (right leg) since you have taken away his arm defense for that side. Your head will be in front and your left arm will be drapped (curled around the leg with a slant down so that your hand is much lower than your elbow. Not only have you "taken away" his defense on that side, you are driving his center of gravity towards (and we hope beyond) his far foot.

Neutral Position: Getting the Front Headlock( Hereafter, FHL)

With your right hand cupped (thumb with the fingers), from a couple of inches behind and above his head, snap your "cup" down between his neck and the back of his head, driving his head down and to you, as your right foot goes to the rear and off the mat. As your foot goes back and his head is snapping forward and down towards you, drive your fist towards the mat with a straight arm as your shoulder hits the back of his neck. Do NOT just grab the FHL. (Your weight is off your right foot as it steps back so more is on the point of your shoulder.) Secure the FHL with your right hand (facing down to the mat) grasping onto your left wrist (your left arm parallel to the mat keeping your elbow back to you) since this will mean that your forearm bone is driving up into his chin as your shoulder drives down into his neck, making his head face more upward. Squeeze both elbows up to you and back. Then, move him around a bit, stepping to the side as your other foot spins behind the stepping foot, coordinating the jerk on his head and neck.

Neutral Position: FHL(feet) to Near Knee

With a tight FHL(with your right arm "through" under his chin), while lowering your level take a step to your right (not back or forward), with your right foot, yanking your elbows to your right; spin on the ball of the right foot while your left foot circles (not back) but to your right, as close as possible to the rear of your right foot. That should bring his right foot forward. Then lowering your level into him, going down with your right shoulder, push off with your left foot, and come down with your right knee hitting the ground as deeply as possible between his legs, so far in that your right foot is flat with your toes straight out behind you. Make him kiss his knee as you drive forward into him as your left arm circles behind his łnear˛ (right) knee. If you are in deep, you wonąt have to "reach" for his knee. Take him backward to his back rather than the fancier and riskier cradle back in your direction.

Neutral Position: FHL(feet) to Far Ankle

(Either when you can't get him to step forward with the "near knee" or as a move in itself.). Jerking both your elbows to your left, jump to your left--both feet off the mat, lowering your level, and pointing your toes to the right. With your left hand out (BUT NOT stretching it out), drive back off both feet (off your toes since your feet were never flat), taking his head down and across as you pick up his ankle. If you do it right, he should be down even without the ankle. Again, the old principle: drive his center of gravity down and beyond his outside foot.